In Part 01 of this series, I went through the process of searching for the appropriate classic car. Even though I live in Tokyo, it turns out the best way to get the car I wanted, a Prince Skyline GT-B, was to buy an export model from Australia. In this installment, I document what you need to get it past Japan’s dreaded Shaken roadworthiness inspection.
At this point, I was at home in Tokyo while my car was 7,800 km away in Sydney. After comparing prices, I picked the same importer that Skorj used to import his Honda S800. He was very professional and down to earth. He quickly arranged an exporter in Australia and made arrangements to get the car to Tokyo, but I had to organize the shipping within Australia to the exporter’s shop with the owner of the car.
It took about a month for the car to get from Sydney to Kawasaki, but once it got off the boat it took another two weeks to get the car road ready.
To register the GT-B and have it licensed, I needed to get a parking space certificate issued by my local police station. In Tokyo real estate is in scarce supply, so I had to prove I owned or rented a parking space for the car by filling out a parking registration form and providing a detailed map and dimensions of my car park. Since my parking space was on the top park of a dual lift space, I had to give these details as well.
A few days after applying, the police then visit the parking space to confirm it is actually there, measure it directly if it hasn’t been registered previously, and confirm the space belongs to the person who is applying. They usually check with the landlord too.
Any car imported into Japan has to go through the registration and Shaken. No car is exempt unless you’re going to put it in a showroom and never drive it.
The internet is full of stories about Japan’s supposedly crazy Shaken car registration system (pronounced sha-KEN; literally, a “car inspection” with the sha meaning car or vehicle, the same as in kyuusha, or “old car”). Specifically, the myths talk about how complicated it is and the massive impact on your purse or wallet, with some claims of ¥500,000 ($4,200-5,000) or more. In fact, it is allegedly so expensive that many people would rather buy a new car than go through it.
However, there is no great mystery about the Shaken, nor are the costs expected either outrageous or unjustified. That is, if you know what to do, and what not to do. First, the Shaken system is designed to encourage three main aspects of motoring, in this order:
- To drive the smallest car possible.
- Newer cars are preferred over older cars.
- To ensure all cars are safely maintained.
The first two points are key to understanding the sliding scale of costs for weight and age. Weight is an obvious common measure of overall vehicle efficiency, with lighter cars generally consuming less fuel, occupying less road space, and causing less damage to road surfaces and street furniture.
It is not officially stated why newer cars are preferred over older cars, but in addition to the assumption that newer cars are more efficient and safer than older cars, it is also generally understood the Japanese government enjoys sales tax and other general revenue streams from new cars being constantly purchased. This element finds particular favor among the internet conspiracy theorists as they further the Shaken myths.
While owning an older car is more expensive, in truth a car maintains the same Shaken fee until age 13, when it increases by a typical 20 percent. As the age increases so does the fee, up to 50 percent over the lifetime of the car. However, a car suffers no more increases in Shaken fee after age 18. Thus, a car aged 18 years or older has a static Shaken fee with no more increases until the day it dies.
However, while the age of the car does contribute to an cost increase of up to 50 percent, the weight of the car can contribute to a massive 500 percent increase, up from a car weighing less than one ton (such as a Suzuki Twin) to a vehicle weighing up to three tons (such as a Hummer).
Fortunately, most older cars weigh a lot less than new ones. Even though it was a mid-size Japanese sedan for its time, the Skyline falls in the cheapest non-kei weight category, 501-1000 kg. For a car of its age, the cost is about ¥20,000 ($165-200).
All of the above comments apply to conventional gasoline powered cars, and not electric, hybrids, fusion, or kei cars. Those are all generally cheaper still.
More importantly, how you obtain your Shaken is key to enjoying the most cost effective method. Included in the Shaken fees are four things:
- Road tax – calculated based on the weight and age factors mentioned above.
- Compulsory insurance – ¥25,000 ($210-250).
- Testing fee – around ¥2,000 yen ($17-20).
- Repairs to ensure vehicle safety.
That last part about safety repairs is crucial, and this is where costs can mount up pretty quickly, especially if you take your car to an authorized dealer for its Shaken.
All dealers are licensed of course, and this being Japan their obligation to the customer is number one, so if something needs replacing, anything at all, it is of course replaced. For example, the radiator overflow bottle on our old Honda CR-V was a little yellowed and crazed around its neck. Estimate for new replacement? ¥75,000 ($625-700). There was nothing wrong functionally with the old one — which incidentally went on to service the CR-V’s overflow needs for many more years, and was sold with the car — but the dealer recommended it be replaced to satisfy possible Shaken inspection needs.
Most, if not all dealers apply this simple rule — and the full manufacturer’s recommendations — for parts replacement accordingly; if anything in your car does, may, or might possibly need replacing between now and the next Shaken inspection, then it is replaced. The cynical may think this is done to secure revenue for the dealer, but it’s also part of the Japanese custom of removing obligation if something were to fail after the Shaken and after you’ve left the dealer.
Of course, as the majority of Japanese car buyers would never dream of taking their cars to anything but an authorized dealer, this ensures customers are never exposed to driving an unsafe vehicle that has deviated from manufacturer standards. This is also why you rarely see clunkers chugging down the road in Japan.
So, can you obtain a Shaken without going through an authorized dealer? Yes! It’s called User Shaken, and is available with a few simple steps at the very moderate fee of ¥2,000 ($17-20) for a testing appointment. For those who maintain your own car then, a User Shaken is a fast, cost effective, and easy way to ensure your car is allowed back on the road following its two-year Shaken interval. This is particularly true if you drive a low-use kyuusha.
Of course you must make sure your vehicle is safe and drivable, which you should be doing anyway. Then comes the inspection routine, which is well documented, regimented, and perfectly controlled. After making an appointment online, you simply arrive at the User Shaken pit lane and inspection course, drive through a series of automotive checks (lights, brakes, alignment, speedometer check, emissions test, chassis check, suspension check, and numbers inspection, etc.).
Provided all is okay, you obtain your appropriate certificate and sticker. Since my GT-B was only recently imported from Australia, it was listed as a “new” car. As such, it received a three year Shaken rather than the typical two year interval that is required thereafter. In total, I spent ¥75,000 ($620-750) on Shaken parts to help it pass. For example, they replaced the headlights cause they were too dim. Next up, a license plate and the driving experience. To be continued…
In case you missed it, have a look at Part 01 — The Search.